1.Dior Homme: As you might know I’m not a fan of all-in-one suits, but in combi with sth dressed down: Count me in! I fell in love with the zipper suit pants, but the look convinced me because of the silhouette: An excessive parka and cleary defined legs are always welcome.
2. Balenciaga: Utilitarian pockets make the ‚building block‘ and Wang added them everywhere: Tuxedos, parkas, coats etc. I’m pretty happy that Wang (it was about time!) breakup at Balenciaga, but my most favorite look from his spring/summer 16 collection was this huge parka over (very short) shorts and classic black boots.
3. Diesel Black Gold: Since the fall winter show in 2014, Diesel Black Gold got me! (I wrote sth about it on homme to go). The collection is very similar to the other but collective both sites: An edgy look with valuable pockets, lacings and nicer materials. Diesel becomes a voice, which is strictly connected to the rock-chich attitude and this time Melbostad showed us an edgy-metropolitan-safari.
1. Paul Smith: Simple, adequate coolness and a 70’s revival: love it! Everything from the hairdo to the flare jeans makes me wanna be a Paul Smith boy next summer.
2. Maison Martin Margiela: Galliano’s signature wild side finally came out to play: clean chic and moments of rock and roll taking over at Margiela. Anyone is talking about the crisscross sandals, studded boots and other finest shoe designs, but I stuck at the blue leather statement trench and painted sheer tops.
3. James Long: James showed us a mishmash of prints, colors and textures. More acid house than Brightons Indo-Saracenic Royal Pavilion (his main inspiration) was the distressed denim, tie-dyed stuff and a coherent ‚undone‘ collection.
1. Raf Simons: This year Raf showed us form fitting cropped knitwear tops (hallelujah), bell bottom pants and grim reaper hoodies (which where the biggest clue and came in checked shrouds).Raf became one of my favorites in the past years: his collections, though unexpected, always apropos.
2. Ami: I know, this look is pale by comparison, but it’s also very down-to-earth and thats what I like about it: a simple jeans, a striped sweater, velcro sneakers and a trench. Nothing new, but I’ll do it all the same!
3. Topman: From the patched denim and leather jackets to the styling, all dovetails nicely. I wasn’t happy about the choice of pants (very wide bell bottom), but anything else, especially the turtle neck and shirt combo, stayed in my head.
4. Haider Ackermann: I’m positive about the piece parts and styling of this collection! The metallic pants making me wet and clashes horribly good with the blue suede chelsea boots, the waist became the most important part (loved the knotted scarfs and belts that created a slim silhouette) and nothing to speak of, but anyhow mentionable: bushy thick eyebrows!